Hi Jon,

I saw your photo and story on HairDirects website. Then I went to your website and read some of your articles on attachment, cutting, cleaning, etc. There was a lot of info and it was confusing at times. I saw something about a DVD. Is this DVD going to be a visual “how to” DVD and when will it be available?

Hey Randy, thanks for the email!

Yes, I am producing a how-to DVD that explains the ins and outs of ordering, wearing, and maintaining a full cap.

I wish I could give an exact release date for the Full Cap DVD, but the project has proven to be more challenging than originally anticipated and has been met with multiple setbacks. That said, the video is “substantially complete”. We are in the very final stages of editing, authoring, and cover design. Please check back in the near future for updates!

I have suffered from hair loss for 25 years, I have had several hair transplants done and been to 3 or 4 diiferent non-surgical companys such as Hair Club for Men, etc. I have bought hair systems but have never really been 100% satisifed with the look. The latest one I got was close. I have hair in the front of my head from the multiple transplants that I have had but my crown area is a cue ball. Also from all the transplants the hair at the back of my head is too thinned out. My biggest complaints about hair systems have always been how they look in the back of the head, they never look good trying to blend in with existing hair. Also the front hairline is always a dead give away. With a full cap the back looks so much better. I was wondering if it is possible to have a top with the “back extended down like a full cap unit? My sides are alright and as i said my hairline with the transplants in front I think I can place a unit just behind the hairline as long as it is of very light density.

Any input or comments would greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Randy

You can have any base shape you desire.

If you have good side and nape hair and only want to replace an extended area on the top and back of your head that is certainly doable. I would even go so far as to say that you will probably get a better result from a more unusual shape due to the fact that the blend area will be different than a standard partial unit.

Also, if you can manage to utilize your transplanted hairline it will be much easier to wear and maintain a hairpiece. A couple of years ago I consulted a doctor who lives here in Orlando who had a situation similar to yours. His transplant had been done years ago and it wasn’t as good as the transplants we see today, but even with a very thin hairline with multiple hairs transplanted together he was able to utilize a partial unit placed just behind his hairline. He had to continue to use concealers in the front, but the results were outstanding!

If you could send some good quality pictures or a short video of what you are currently working with I might be able to give you a few specific ideas.

Thanks again for the email!

Jon

Hey JRob,
Great site and really good info!

I’m completely new to hair systems and was curious:

A) Do you leave some hair on the back of your head (nape) area? If so, what is the advantage to that? I would think a full cover with a fullcap has the advantage of not worrying about blending in the back?

The advantage to utilizing existing nape hair is a smoother transition and in some cases improved realism. Personally, I shave everything, but if my own nape hair were in good shape I might consider keeping some of my own hair. And yes, you are correct, with a full unit there is no blending to worry about. It’s really all about picking the tradeoff that works best for you.

B) For someone who’s active, you would recommend lace vs the skins? Again, I’ve never worn anything but I would think a skin would be hot after a while.

Definitely order lace for your primary unit. You might want to try a skin perimeter piece as well, but get a lace unit or two under your belt first.

C) What would you say is the least detectable, french lace with swiss front?

Yep, that’s a great combo. Swiss lace is always going to be the least detectable type of base but the tradeout is durability. Not sure which company you are thinking about ordering from but if they use a good french lace you might consider a 100% french base for your first unit. The lace is a little thicker but you can still spike the front and the base will hold up for a long, long time.

One very important thing to note is that if you are using swiss lace in the temple point/sideburn areas, make absolutely sure that there is some kind of reinforcement in the area where the sideburn begins to curve at the back before going over the ear. A double layer of swiss that begins mid-sideburn and continues back above the ear should be sufficient. If you only have a single layer of swiss it will likely fray and tear in this area causing you to have to retire the unit prematurely.

Thanks and keep up the great work!

Tony

No problem. Keep us posted on your progress!

The focus is on full caps, but I will be happy to answer any questions you have regarding hair replacement. Hopefully we can get plenty of good discussions going and build a rich knowledge base in the process.

Cannedair has already asked some great questions to get us off to a great start, so sign up and start posting today at http://HairJive.com/forum

Hi again JRob.

I was just wondering if you have any close up photos of your temple areas?

If so, I’m very interested in having a look if that’s OK for you.

It’s about a month until I receive my modified system (lower density), and frankly I’m very uncertain when

it comes to getting the temple areas to look realistic.

Best regards

Y

Hi again Jon.

I received a full cap based on my new mold design a couple of weeks ago, and I have been experimenting with it since then. While I don’t think it’s 100% perfect, I feel it’s going the right way. There are some things I would like to ask you about again;

1. The system is quite “fluffy” when it arrives (I was aware of this from before). It seems very thick, and when wetting it things look a lot better. Over time (while wearing), does this change? I got the feeling that I’d have to apply styling products it to make it look good all the time. What about you? Do you depend on using styling products to make it look realistic? Is your system as “fluffy” as it was when you got it from the factory?

There is a difference between “fluffy” and “extremely thick”. If the density is ok it will settle down after a few washings.  If it is simply way too thick, it might be hard to get a realistic look. Depending upon how thick it is, hair products can be used to make it appear thinner.

2. The ventilation was not OK this time either (better than the first time though), so I bought a lancet and startet cutting on my own to get rid of the misplaced hairs in the temple hairline (a few of them are pointing straight forward, when they should just lay down). It seems that drawing arrows on the mold wasn’t enough. What do you think? Should I try to tell them one more time, or should I just add 0.1-0.3cm or something to the temple hairline and just customize it myself when I receive it?  Since I had to cut past my measured hairline, it didn’t look natural (to much recession), but the appearance of the hairs was great, and it did look like they grew out of my head. I think this is definitely the most tricky part in making this work. I think it is an advantage to be able to customize on your self, since you actually can’t guarantee that the system you get will be perfectly ventilated (at least it doesn’t seems that way).

Looking forward to hear from you!

Y

hey jon

how’s it going. hope everythings’s fine over there.

I recently ordered my first piece and now i am waiting for it to finally arrive

however, i hope you don’t mind if i ask you 1-2 questions:

1) what is this knot bleaching all about? i ordered very dark hair at 75% density. from what i have heard the fullcaps do not come to us bleached. i am sending my piece to debbie for cut in anyway so would you say it’s a good idea to have her bleach the knots for me as well or will i not need to bleach any knots at all? its all french lace. i don’t want to do the know bleaching myself.

2) i will have to order some supply from debbie too, so she can send me the whole package together with my fullcap. could you kindly tell me which glue and which tape you would recommend to order from her site? also, how long does a package of tape or glue last? i have no idea. what other products for removal and cleaning do i need? debbie got 6-7 products on her page but i don’t know which one will be the best for my frenchlace fullcap.

your advise is highly appreaciated. i visit your blog everyday to check for updates. actually i don’t know anybody how is “wearing” but if i should get to know somebody i will definitely promote your site!

please let me know if there is anything i can do for you. thanks a lot and have a great day!

My reply:

Here is the script taken directly from the Basic Supplies segment from my upcoming DVD-

Basic Supplies

Before I explain the ins and outs of ordering, wearing, and maintaining a full cap I want to take a few minutes to talk about supplies. I will explain some of these items in more detail in later segments, and you can also find a complete list of essential and recommended supplies in the extras section on the main menu.

There are only a few essential items that you will need in order to attach and maintain a full cap. These include:

• Adhesive and/or tape
• 99% alcohol or “lace release”
• Adhesive remover
• Shampoo and conditioner
• Scissors
• A spray bottle, syringe, or dropper for dispensing alcohol

You will also need a few items for building a mold, or “template” of your head for your first order. For making your template you will also need:

• Clear packing tape
• Kitchen plastic wrap
• Black marker
• Makeup pencil
• Handheld mirror

Some additional items that I highly recommend are:

• A styrofoam head
• Wax paper
• A hair dryer
• T-pins
• Absorbent headbands
• Microfiber towels
• A ball tipped bristle hairbrush
• A wide tooth comb
• A hobby knife
• Cotton swabs
• Pallet wrap
• Paper towels

Many of these items can be purchased from supermarkets, discount stores, or beauty supply shops, but you might have a hard time finding tapes, adhesives, 99% alcohol, and skin-safe adhesive removers locally. You might be able to find some of these supplied in salons that specialize in hair replacement, but it will probably be more convenient for you to order them online. If you decide to purchase a styrofoam head, I recommend buying one that is as close to the size of your own head as possible. Beauty supply shops usually carry the smaller ones which are suitable for most women, but if you are guy you might want to consider purchasing a larger one from a retail store display supplier.

There are a few additional items that you might want to purchase to help with attaching, wearing, and maintaining your full cap. For more information on these additional supplies, refer to the supplies segment in the extras section that can be found on the main menu.

The only items that you really need for very basic attachments and removals are glue/tapes, alcohol, adhesive remover, a shampoo and conditioner, scissors, and a spray bottle or syringe/dropper for the alcohol. You are beyond the template stage, so you won’t need any of those supplies, but I would highly recommend picking up a few more items especially the styrofoam head, t-pins, headbands, a brush and comb, and pallet wrap (to wipe the base free of stubborn adhesive residue after you mirror slide).   As for specific glues and tapes, you just need to bite the bullet and get a good, strong solvent based glue, a white glue, and several different kinds of tape. For an all lace base, blue liner tape works well and is easier to handle than some of the other tapes, but I would also order up a few of the other strong tapes to give them a shot. If there was a right or wrong answer I would tell you exactly what you need, but unfortunately it’s trial and error. You can start out with blue liner, one white glue, and one solvent based glue, but I would throw a few more adhesives and glues on your first order so you can find what works best for you. Glues and tapes can last from a few weeks to many months depending upon a lot of factors.   As for the knot bleaching, I have had conversations with Debbie regarding this, and she will probably also tell you that there are no guarantees. If you are uncomfortable doing this yourself, by all means let Debbie do it, but keep in mind that sometimes the knots will weaken after bleaching, and sometimes they will be nearly impossible to bleach.   Usually the knots at the hairline will be bleached pretty well, at least with my #17 hair color they have been. The issues for me have been in the crown area and in the nape. When the knots aren’t bleached in the nape and you attach below your occipital bone, when the hair gets wet you will see a definite line.   Ventilation has also been an issue in this area. The factories need to start tying the napes as if they were hairlines, with smaller single and double knots instead of these huge knots with multiple hairs tied into them. (This of course assumes that your density is low enough to allow this type of construction) I am working with the hair companies to address this issue as we speak.   Don’t worry about getting the rest of the unit bleached (unless you have a part), especially with that high of a density. You might not even have an issue with the nape with that much hair. If Debbie is going to cut it in I would get her recommendation and take her advice.   Let me know how everything goes,   Jon

Jon,
My piece as it stands is pretty messed up.  Weakness in the knots due to the bleaching, which didn’t work very well and most of the knots stayed dark, but it turned some of the dark brown hair blonde – and then I had to use hairdye to get that blonde hair brown again, which ended up having a red tinge to it.  So it’s pretty messed up….ugh!

Anyway I have a follow up question, and I hope you don’t mind.  I might have to order a new piece, and I’ll see if John will give me a discount because the knots were not bleached when the piece arrived and it made the piece look quite wiggy.  Debbie recommended that I order the front 1″ of the piece and the crown and nape blond, and then dye the hair dark brown.  That way the knots won’t be weakened by bleach.  Also using your recommendation  to ask for single knot ventilation along the perimeter on top of that.

I’m wondering what you think of this option vs specifying single knot ventilation with bleached knots on the entire perimeter coming from the factory…im leery of trusting them after getting my piece without bleached knots.  Then again, I’m also leery of dying the hair myself seeing the results I’ve gotten here at home.

Thanks,
M

Here is a picture of some ugly, unbleached knots-

Does a normal scalp look like this?

Here is my reply:

“Sounds like quite a mess.

I have also talked to Debbie about this and she recommended the same thing to me. I haven’t tried it yet, but it makes perfect sense. I have colored a unit before so I wouldn’t really be afraid of doing it again, but I would think you would have to get good quality hair dye and go at it conservatively. Start by leaving the color on for 1/2 to 3/4 the amount of time you think it might take, then come back and add more if it isn’t dark enough. Another thing would be “Is it going to fade the same as the rest of the piece”?

Jon

Hopefully the factories eventually catch on to the fact that us full cappers need our knots bleached! Not only at the hairline, but also in the crown and nape areas (especially when the unit gets wet).

Can you exercise (cardio, weighlifting) comfortably and have the piece still look realistic when you’re done?

With a lace piece that is no problem. Plus you can always throw a hat on when you get there.

Has anyone (who either knows or doesn’t know you wear) ever detected your full cap?  How close can someone get to your hairline or side hair without seeing the lace?

Not to my knowledge. I have had women who work with lace front wigs who didn’t believe that I was wearing after I told them. Two of them as a matter of fact, the latest was yesterday. If your knots are well bleached and the unit is attached well, nobody will see the lace, even being a couple of inches away.

Assuming a full cap is a viable option, I am not at all comfortable making my own template to get started.  I would really like to have someone help me with this important step, as well as with selecting a color, style, etc….  I live in [edited for privacy].  Do you know anyone in this region who could help me with a full cap?  Obviously I would also need help with a cut-in, and doing the initial attachments.   I would consider traveling to have the template made if necessary.

Let me know if you are able to make it to Orlando. It would definitely get you on the right track very quickly.

[Editor- I am planning to add consulting and other personalized services for people who are looking for more hands-on, personalized instruction. I am working on the details. Check back for updates!]

Hi Jon,

I know you recommend a french lace base for newbies, but what if someone works out and sweats a lot? Would the french base still be a good choice for that, or would another base type be more appropriate? I’m not sure whether it’s best to have more ventilation with the lace bases or more sturdy security with the skin/poly bases, or even a combination. I’ve been avoiding swimming for a long time, so I’d like to know what the most secure base is for swimmers too.

Definitely, 100% without question, French Lace for your first unit. See my blog post from yesterday about my first time wakeboarding. Blue liner tape provided the bulk of the strength of the attachment, and Ultrahold glue gave a great finish in the front. It held solid as a rock, and I got dunked three or four times….fully submerged.

I can’t stress enough the importance of an all French Lace unit for your first. Not only can you get a rock solid attachment, but it is comfortable, breathable, and very easy to customize.

Also, some sites have a measurement method of building a template for full caps. Have you heard anything about how accurate this method is?

My first two full caps were ordered with measurements only. Subsequent orders have all been with templates.

The biggest issue with ordering from measurements is the fact that the temple points and hairline shape are left to the  ventilator’s discretion, and usually end up looking unrealistic. This is less of an issue if you are planning a longer hairstyle, but I always recommend a template. If you order an all lace base as I suggest, you can still easily cut these areas to shape and pluck individual hairs to acheive a good looking hairline, but the closer the factory gets the better.

What is the length of the hair and density for this image you posted? It looks really good without any cut or styling added to it.

I believe this is about 6″ hair length, light or body wave, and the density would be based upon the company that you order from. This would be a little above average density on the top (and even higher in the back) for a 30-40 something male. Actually, this unit was just cut-in and the density is pretty heavy all the way around. Maybe suitable for a guy in his 20′s, but too thick for me!