The day has finally come! You have gathered your supplies and read everything you could find about hair systems. You have waited patiently, and one day the postman shows up at your door with a mysterious package. You know what it is, and you are excited to see what your new hair looks like.
You open the package and to your shock and horror you see what looks kind of like a dead animal pelt staring up at you. You ask yourself “How am I going to make THIS thing look like real hair?”
We have all been through it. The initial shock of seeing an uncut hair system can be quite unnerving, if not downright SCARY.
The good news is this is the worst part. Well, almost. You will probably be in for another shock after you finally get the unit cut in, when you look in the mirror and see a glorious head of beautiful hair staring back at you.
I think it has something to do with the fact that you are so used to seeing yourself without hair, that when you finally do see hair on your head, no matter how spectacular it looks, your mind automatically thinks something doesn’t look right, and you become paranoid that other people will think the same thing.
The really good news is that most people could really care less. Most folks are so preoccupied with their lives, their problems, and their own insecurities to give your hair more than a passing glance.
You will probably be in a state of shock for a few days. You might be a little paranoid thinking everyone is staring at your hair. Don’t worry….this is normal. Once you have “lived in” your hair for a few days to a week you will adjust to your new look.
Things to watch out for
Before we get started with the ins and outs of attachment, removal, cleaning, and maintenance, I would like to take a few minutes to go over some things you might want to watch out for.
- Anything that dries the hair
- As mentioned before, avoid hair products that contain “bad” alcohol.
- Avoid excessive heat. If you must use a hair dryer, use cool air ONLY.
- Stay out of the sun. Exposure to UV rays causes fading and sometimes reddish or “brassy” tones in processed hair.
- Try to avoid chlorine. The water in swimming pools and hot tubs can dry and fade the hair.
Attachment
There are many different ways to attach a hair system using tape, glue, or a combination of both.
Note- If you are attaching a unit prior to cut-in and the hair length poses a problem for you, try using hair clips to hold back the excess hair to make attachment easier. Refer to the “Extras” chapter for information on trimming the lace and removing the tag from the unit.
My preferred method of attachment for a lace base full cap uses a combination of blue liner tape for holding strength, and white glue for undetectablility. Keep in mind that there is no “right” or “wrong” way to do an attachment. You can use my method as a rough guide, or develop one of your own. It doesn’t matter how you attach, as long as it works for you!
Before you begin an attachment, it’s a good idea to ensure that the room is cool. Lower the thermostat on the air conditioner, and grab a fan if you have one available. Take your time and try not to stress. Sweating can decrease the quality of the attachment, or even worse completely ruin it, causing you to have to start from the beginning. If you are using glues this can be especially messy and time consuming, so minimize sweating as much as possible!
I begin by turning the unit inside out and placing it on a Styrofoam head. Next, I position the unit so that the neck area runs across the top of the head, using a single t-pin to hold it in place.
Once the unit is secure, I peel back a section of blue liner tape, turning it upside down as I run it along the bottom edge of the piece upside down to measure the length of the neck area. Once I have established the proper length, I stick my clean index finger to the very edge of the tape, holding the roll between my other fingers, bending the tape back.
Until you get used to eying the length, you might want to have a marker handy to note where you will need to cut the tape, but once you get used to this method it’s pretty easy to get an accurate cut just by keeping your eye on the imaginary cut line as you get the tape into position to cut.
Hint- You can also use the tape backing from a previous attachment as a guide.
Note- Although blue liner tape works well on the nape area of a full cap due to its ever increasing level of tackiness throughout the attachment, it can also be a nightmare to clean if your unit is attached for too long. Some of the other strong tapes can also be used in place of the blue liner with excellent results. The key is finding a tape that remains tacky and flexible enough to hold for the duration of your attachment. The tapes that are less prone to breaking down are easier to clean, but generally do not offer the attachment quality that the blue liner and some others offer and might require the application of glue every couple of days to maintain the attachment.
Once you have decided how much length you need, continue to bend the tape back, and with a small, clean pair of scissors, make one slice along your cut line. Before you begin unrolling the tape, be sure that your scissors are free from any sort of contaminants, especially tape residue. Adhesives tend to stick to adhesives, and a gummy pair of scissors makes it very difficult to get a clean cut. If you have difficulty cutting the tape, simply spray the scissor blades with a little alcohol. This will give you a few seconds to make a very clean cut before the alcohol evaporates and the tape regains its tack.
Once the tape is cut to the desired length, I use a couple of coats of white glue to remove the shine from the tape prior to placing it on the unit. This step may not be necessary with units that have a higher density, but it is easy to do and ensures that the tape remains invisible.
If you decide to use glue to remove the shine from the tape, simply rub a small amount of glue on half of the tape at a time. It takes a little bit of practice to hold onto the tape while applying the glue, but once you get the feel for it the process only takes a couple of extra minutes. To help you hold on to the tape while applying glue, you can also use pieces of tape backing placed on the sticky side of the tape to give you a non-sticky surface on both sides allowing you to easily maneuver the tape while you apply the glue. I recommend applying a second coat of glue after the first has dried, this time “smearing” the glue well to reduce the shine.
After a few minutes when the second coat of glue has had a chance to dry, its time to apply the tape to the piece, but before you proceed it is a good idea to spray the base with a light mist of alcohol and give it a quick wipe with a micro fiber cloth to remove any remaining oils, dirt, and adhesive residue.
Your piece should still be in place on the Styrofoam head, with the neck area stretching from front to back across the top. Starting on either end of the piece, place the tape on the base, overlapping the lace by about 1/16 of an inch. There are two reasons to extend the tape beyond the edge of the lace. The first is that it will help the hair lay flatter in this area, giving a more realistic appearance. The second reason is that since the lace is trimmed all the way to the hairline in this area, the tape makes the piece less detectable to touch by providing a “transition” between your skin and the piece. If you were to apply tape or glue only to the edge of the lace and run your fingers up through the hair from the back, you would feel a much more pronounced edge. Overlapping helps to counteract this problem.
When you reach the end, apply plenty of pressure to the tape to help it adhere to the lace. Use your fingernail to apply extra pressure to one of the edges. This will provide the tape with a little extra “bite” which will help when you are peeling the backing away when attaching. You might also want to actually peel back a little bit of the tape backing to help get it started, laying it gently back on the tape to make it easier to remove when you are ready to attach.
As soon as the tape is in place in the back, you are ready to begin your attachment. First, spray your scalp with a light mist of 99% alcohol and wipe with a micro fiber cloth. Then, remove the unit from the Styrofoam and place it on your head. Using your sense of touch you should be able to get the piece aligned in the back, placing the lower edge of the piece right at the crease at the base of your skull, at the bottom of the occipital bone, above where your spine meets your skull. If your unit extends below the base of your skull, position accordingly. If you are integrating your existing nape hair, use the edges of your thumbs to feel for the hairline to align the piece.
Use a handheld mirror to confirm that the piece is in the correct position, making sure the temples and hairline are also properly aligned.
Once you are satisfied that the unit is aligned properly, use both hands to flip up the back edge of the piece, being careful not to move the unit. Peel away the backing from the tape. Use both thumbs to keep the back edge of the piece from falling onto the skin. Use your index fingers to tack down the center of the piece, running your fingers out toward the edges tacking the piece down as you move out from the center, releasing the piece with your thumbs as you go. Apply plenty of pressure to the taped area to ensure good adhesion.
Now that the back edge is in place, use your makeup pencil to make a dotted line from one sideburn area up the the temple point, through the temple area and across the hairline, all the way to the other side. Place the dots just slightly in front of the lace, spaced evenly enough to give a good outline to follow when applying glue.
After you have made an outline, flip the entire unit back to expose your scalp.
Next, I cut four more strips of tape, one to apply across the top of the scalp, one on the back of the scalp and two that I apply at an angle above and behind the ears
As soon as the tape is in place on the sides and hairline, I like to add two thin coats of white glue, as I did earlier in the back to remove the tape shine. This time the tape is already attached to a solid surface (my head), making it much easier to apply the glue. Peel away the tape backing and apply 1-2 coats of white glue to eliminate any shine.
You will also need to apply a couple of coats of glue to the temple and hairline areas and above the ears, keeping your glue line a fraction of an inch behind the line that you marked earlier with the makeup pencil. The idea is to get the glue line as close to the edge of where you hair unit as possible, keeping the glue from extending beyond the edge of the base. (If you don’t apply enough glue you can always use a toothpick to “touch up” any areas that do not adhere, if there is any excess glue you can use regular tape to pull it off by applying the tape to the excess glue and peeling it off quickly)
Allow the glue to dry for several minutes until your finger is no longer able to lift “strings” of glue, or when it’s nice and tacky (“dry”). When your final coat of glue is dry, dip or spray the corner of a paper towel in 99% alcohol and carefully remove your attachment marks. Once the marks are gone, “roll” the piece toward the front of your head, keeping the base of the hairline and temples folded back as you move forward.
Get the unit as far forward as possible without touching the glue at the hairline and temples, then grab the hairline toward the center between your thumbs and middle and index fingers.
Hint- Spray a light mist of 99% alcohol prior to attachment to allow 30-60 seconds to adjust the positioning before the glue begins to set.
Try to keep the temples from adhering to the tape on the sides if possible. If your hair is long enough you might be able to use hair clips to hold the base back. If the hair is too short, it is ok if the base touches the glue on the sides, but don’t apply any pressure yet. Concentrate on lining your hairline up with the marks that you made earlier. When you are satisfied with the alignment, press the base down into the adhesive and apply pressure at the hairline to allow maximum adhesion.
Now it’s time to attach the temple areas. You should be able to lift the base freely from the glue with minimal resistance. If for some reason the base is sticking to the adhesive and is difficult to lift, spray a little of alcohol in the area that is sticking to loosen the bond temporarily.
Working with one side at a time, grab the base between your thumb, forefinger, and middle finger. Pull the base down toward your sideburns, using the edge of your thumb to lightly feel for the edge of the sideburn hairline. Position the temple areas and press the base into the adhesive. You can also use a hand held mirror to help you attach properly.
Your full cap should now be securely attached.
Most tapes and glues require pressure to achieve maximum adhesion. In the temple areas I generally use my fingers to apply direct pressure, but if you plan to expose any hairline you will have to take a few extra steps to ensure an undetectable finish.
Start by gently combing the hair up in a “spiky” manner to expose the hairline. Next, use a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to pull out any stray hairs that are stuck to the base or excess glue.
When all of the hairs are off the base, use a comb to apply pressure to the base. You can use a light spray of alcohol or a little oil or conditioner on the comb to prevent it from sticking to the adhesive if necessary.
After a fresh attachment, allow the adhesives 24 hours to reach maximum strength. During this time do not saturate hair with water or apply excessive pressure when styling.
Congratulations! You are now finished with your first attachment.
Next I will briefly explain a couple of skin attachment methods using glue and tape.
Taping a poly perimeter is easy. You can use roll tape for straight runs and very slight curves, or it can be cut to the desired shape. Tape contours are also available and come in handy when taping the hairline. Mini tape “tabs” are also available and are convenient for small areas with a slight curvature.
When attaching a skin perimeter piece with glue, it is important to remember that to achieve a strong hold you will need to apply a layer or two of glue to both the poly base and your skin, allowing both to dry before joining them together. If you are doing an all glue attachment with a poly base, place the unit on your head and align it as you would a lace piece. You can actually start with the front or the back on a skin piece, flipping up each section individually to apply the glue, working with one or two sections at a time until you are finished.
A few things to keep in mind
Although I have only illustrated one method of attachment, the options are limitless with the different tapes and glues available on the market today. One of the good things about showing this particular method of attachment is that it utilizes several different attachment techniques, such as applying the tape directly to the lace, applying the tape to the scalp first, and using glue to create a finished hairline and temples. Keep in mind that if done properly, you can use all glue for attachment, or all tape applied to the base, or even all tape applied first to the scalp, or any number of different combination’s that might work best for you.
As you will see, there are very few hard and fast rules when it comes to DIY hair replacement. Use these methods as a starting point to develop a system that works for you.
Removal
Your full cap will require removal and cleaning from time to time. The amount of time between cleanings will generally vary between one day and two weeks, depending upon your body’s chemistry and the method of attachment.
The first step in removing your full cap is to protect your eyes with an absorbent headband. Place the headband around your head, stretching from the forehead below the hairline, to the back of the neck just below the unit.
Next, gently brush or comb the unit to remove any tangles from the hair. This is important, because processed hair is especially susceptible to damage when wet. The less stress you put on the hair when washing and conditioning, the longer your system will last.
Finally, apply lace release or 99% alcohol to all glued or taped areas at the base with a sprayer, a dropper, or a plastic syringe. Allow the alcohol several minutes to penetrate. After about 5 minutes I like to add a little more alcohol to ensure a clean release. Overall the alcohol should take about 5-10 minutes to soften the adhesive.
Hint- I like to spray the hair with leave-in conditioner prior to removal to act as a “buffer” for the alcohol.
After you have given the alcohol sufficient time to work, gently lift the unit and peel it away from your scalp. You can start anywhere you like, but I generally prefer to begin with the hairline or temple areas working toward the back. If you encounter any areas that do not release easily, spray the area on the underside of the base with alcohol and slowly continue to lift the unit as the alcohol takes effect. Once the unit is removed, turn it inside out and place it on a Styrofoam head to allow some of the alcohol to evaporate for easier cleaning.
In the meantime, rub adhesive remover on your scalp. Try to use the smallest amount of adhesive remover possible. You will have to get enough on your head to penetrate the glue or tape residue, but don’t go overboard. Cleanup is much easier when the adhesive residue not overly saturated.
Now, back to the hair. There are a number of different ways to remove adhesive residue from the base of the piece, but one of the most popular is called the “mirror slide”.
To perform the mirror slide, hold the full cap inside out. Press the underside of the base against the mirror as far up as possible, applying pressure as you wipe the adhesive residue onto the mirror. Work your way around the entire perimeter, removing as much residue as possible.
Some people like to do the mirror slide “dry”, or without using any type of adhesive remover to soften the glue or tape residue, but to reduce friction and save wear and tear on the unit, I like to use a little bit of adhesive remover to “pull“ the adhesive from the lace. The best method I have found for performing this type of cleanup is to use one of the thinner adhesive removers in a spray bottle that produces a fine mist. I simply spray any areas that are “sticky” with a light most of the adhesive remover, wait a few minutes for it to penetrate, and then do a mirror slide.
Hint- For maximum effectiveness, after you have completed the mirror slide, use a piece of “pallet wrap” (a type of plastic wrap that is used to wrap pallets and boxes for shipping) wadded into a loose ball to wipe the base clean of any stubborn residue that remains.
Once you have removed the adhesive residue from the base, it’s time to clean your full cap.
First, apply shampoo to the underside of the base and gently work it into the lace with your fingers. Rinse thoroughly from the underside. Apply shampoo to the base again, this time working the shampoo all the way through the base and into the hair. Turn the unit over and use your fingers to massage the shampoo through the hair following the direction of the hair rather than in a circular motion or back and forth motion (which will cause the hair to tangle making it difficult to condition and prone to breakage).
Once the hair is thoroughly cleaned, it is time to rinse again. As with the prior rinse, make sure the unit is inside out when rinsing. Rinse the shampoo from the piece from the underside, so as not to wash the hair through the underside of the base, again being careful not to twist or tangle the hair.
Once all of the shampoo has been removed, its time to condition your unit. To begin, turn the unit right side out and place it on a Styrofoam head. Put one t-pin in the center at the crown. Apply conditioner liberally to the hair. Try to apply it in the direction of the hair as you did when shampooing.
It is generally not recommended to brush or comb the hair when it is wet, however, if you are very careful and have managed to keep the hair relatively tangle free during the washing stage, you can use a wide tooth comb to distribute the conditioner through the hair. If you encounter a tangle, stop, and slowly roll the comb forward to gently remove the tangle. You have to be very careful when combing the hair when it is wet, so always err on the side of caution, and do not attempt to comb through stubborn tangles. Tangles can be more safely removed when the hair is dry.
Allow the conditioner to remain in the hair for a couple of minutes. Remove the unit from the Styrofoam head, and once again turn it inside out, rinsing with cool water (which closes any remaining cuticle), helping the hair to retain moisture.
If the hair has faded or turned “brassy” or “reddish” in color, a quick way to fix this problem is to use a color correcting conditioner, which helps to restore the hair to its original color. When using color correcting conditioner, follow the manufacturers instructions for use, as this type of product usually needs to be left in the hair for a longer period of time than a normal conditioner would. Also, avoid getting any type of coloring product on the base material. A stained base is makes the material visible, and is often difficult to remove.
You can also purchase “leave-in” type color correctors which generally wash out with one shampoo. These types of colorants can come in handy for adding temporary color when you don’t have time for a more permanent solution, but generally rinse out at least partially with water, so don’t use this type of product if your hair might get wet from swimming, rain, etc.
After the conditioner has been rinsed, turn the unit right side out, and with your hand open on the inside of the base, gently blot the hair on a clean, dry towel to remove excess moisture. Place the unit back on the Styrofoam head and allow to dry.