When I first got started in DIY hair replacement, I learned that many of the guys were purchasing clippers and “vacuum cutters” and learning how to cut their hair themselves, and I have witnessed firsthand the amazing results that can be achieved by some of the individuals who had become skilled at cutting their own hair.

In the past, I have attempted to do a full cut-in with a new unit (a partial unit or a “topper”…. not a full cap), with mediocre results. I’m the kind of guy who likes to wear a modern, textured hairstyle, and that is something that is very difficult to achieve with clippers or a vacuum type hair cutter. In my opinion, for modern, trendy styles, there is simply no substitute for the skill of a trained stylist.

People who wear a full cap are fortunate that they don’t have to worry as much about blending the hairpiece  with their existing hair. This of course depends upon whether or not you are utilizing any of your existing hair, but generally any blending that needs to be done is minimal. This gives the full cap wearer an advantage when getting the unit cut in. With a few simple instructions, most any good stylist can cut it in with great results.

Hint- Make sure you make any major modifications to the base before cut-in. Minor changes can be made after the unit has been cut, but your stylist will be cutting the unit to look best based upon what is in front of them at the time. Also, be sure to get an accurate attachment for your cut-in. This is especially important for shorter hairstyles. The sorter the cut, the more important it is to get everything right up front.

For example, if your attachment is a little bit off and your base material is overlapping your existing sideburn hair and your stylist cuts the hair in that area to blend properly, when you remove and re-attach the unit the hair in that area may be too short to allow for a good blend.

So yes, it is possible to cut-in a full cap at home yourself, but in my opinion, why would you?

Since it is very easy for a stylist to cut a full cap much the same as natural growing hair, I believe that it is beneficial to have it done professionally, especially if you are new to hair replacement.

Here are a few things a stylist needs to know before cutting in a full cap.

First, they will need to understand that the hair cannot be cut too short.. The final length will be determined by the type of base material and density of the piece. With a lace base it is possible for a skilled stylist to go as short as ¾ of an inch, or maybe even shorter depending upon the base design. Full caps with a poly skin perimeter will likely need to be left a little bit longer to hide the base material.

It is always best to start out longer for a couple of reasons. First and most obvious is that it can always be cut shorter if you decide that it is too long.

The second reason is that it is generally easier to create a realistic look with longer hair. Longer styles are also very forgiving in that you have more flexibility to style the hair in different ways to achieve different looks, and the hair can be used to hide attachment imperfections.

The second thing your stylist needs to know is how to properly blend any existing hair with the full cap.

Personally, I like to retain my existing sideburns to help add realism. Make sure the stylist understands that the hairpiece hair needs to be kept long enough to blend into your sideburns. If there is any doubt have the stylist leave it a little longer than they would like in that area, and when you get home use blending and/or cutting shears to add the finishing touches. This is something that you might have to practice. Go slow, be patient, and cut a little at a time to achieve the best look possible.

If you choose to integrate any of your nape hair, make sure your stylist is also aware that the hairpiece hair needs to be left a little longer than your own hair in order to blend properly. If the stylist leaves enough length, they should be able to use thinning or blending shears to allow the piece hair to blend the hair properly.

Other than the length and blending issues, cutting a full cap is nearly identical to cutting a real head of hair. Providing your base was properly designed, most any good stylist can make a full cap look fantastic.

One final note- The only real caveat is that with some units, the way it was ventilated by the factory will affect the way the hair behaves when it is cut. It is best to tell your stylist to remove length slowly if you are trying to achieve a short or even medium length style. If the hair is ventilated properly, the process should go smoothly, but if there are some areas where the hair was tied improperly it can cause issues with the cut. As the unit is cut shorter, if the hair begins to behave unusually, you might want to discuss your options with your stylist, including leaving the hair longer, using styling products to  help to position the hair properly, or in more severe cases returning the unit to the factory to have it corrected.

Chapter 8- Extras